THE MENU (A-minus) - Sometimes you crave a $14 cheeseburger; some nights you need to spend $1,200 for a dining "experience." The surprise pulp movie of the year, "The Menu" is a funny evisceration of several cultural touchstones all at once -- foodies, celebrity chefs, tech bros, sex workers, fading movie stars ... and even critics. With a sharp script and a talented ensemble cast, it zings from every angle.
Ralph Fiennes is perfectly Type A as the arrogant Chef Slowik, who runs the exclusive restaurant on some tech billionaire's exclusive island. He exudes contempt and menace for the pampered customers, all the while driving his staff like cattle. This seething, self-loathing maniac will serve up a night that no one will forget. Fiennes is surrounded by some ace supporting actors, particularly Anya Taylor-Joy as, Margot, a last-minute substitute plus-one among the group of 12, and Hong Chau ("Inherent Vice") as Elsa, the placid, conniving maitre d'.
Also on hand are veterans like Janet McTeer ("Tumbleweeds"), as a snooty food critic; John Leguizamo as a preening, boastful B-movie actor; and Reed Birney ("Mass") and Judith Light (TV's "Transparent") as an exhausted older couple. It is a rich mix of character actors supporting Fiennes and his two powerful co-stars.
TV director Mark Mylod guides a sizzling script full of bright ideas from two veterans of the satirical site The Onion, Seth Reiss (also Seth Meyers' "Late Night" show) and Will Tracy (from John Oliver's "Last Week Tonight"). Their broad characterizations of the elite are tinged with truisms and deft observations about human behavior, whether it's that trio of tech bros or a smug sommelier (a delightful Peter Grosz from HBO's "Veep").
Dread fills the air almost from the start. Tyler (Nicholas Hoult) is a total fanboy of Slowik's and the restaurant, to the point of ignoring basic social cues (mainly from his date, Margot) in his vigilance in savoring every moment of this experience. Like with others, his story will take a dark turn, as Slowik gradually unveils a horror show for his guests. (At one point the men will be hunted like animals.)
The filmmakers create a heady mix of dark comedy and a level of peril that itself is a balance between satire and familiar truths that hit a little too close to home. Taylor-Joy goes toe-to-toe with Fiennes, as skeptical Margot's bravery makes the others seem like timid sheep primed for slaughter. And Chau's harrowing hostess is always there to keep the chaos on track.
"The Menu" is never less than thoroughly entertaining. You might roll your eyes at the cartoonish excess of the script at times, but if you go with the flow, you can't help but walk away satisfied.
BONUS TRACK
A hell of a teaser:
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